First frost came and went, ushering in a new season for the plants and for us. This is a time of year that simultaneously slows down (in the field) and speeds up (in the bakery). Waning daylight signals rest and hibernation for the natural world. It slows plant growth or pauses it altogether. Farmers get a break, or rather a change of pace. Winter growing, yearly reviews, and crop planning continue through the end of the year. The work is always there.
In the farm-bakery, October begins the high holy season of pie, which stretches through December. For any baker choosing to serve the masses, the Thanksgiving bake is Everest— a daring feat of endurance, skill, physicality, and efficiency.
Before the current farm-bakery, which is a cottage space inside our home outfitted with professional equipment and ample tools, I baked out of tiny rentals with even tinier kitchens using only home ovens. For five years. When we moved to the farm in November 2019, we unpacked only the baking table and necessary kitchen equipment, left everything else packed in boxes, and I made 80 pies out of the home oven, four pies at a time. Then, it was only Jamie and me. No employees. No big oven. Just the two of us making it all happen. When I look back to those times, I am convinced some unseen power took the wheel. It seems impossible from here.
As I type this, a big oven hums in the background. The first round of pie shells parbaking for the big Wednesday delivery. I am at the computer writing this in 15-minute increments before rotating the next round of pies and then reloading the oven. There are people who write novels on subways or in the liminal moments when their children nap. I am not one of those people, but I understand the need to find space and time to write. It can be terribly elusive. Juggling three businesses, as it turns out, is a full-time job.
In the spirit of the season, albeit a day late, a recipe for you to make this holiday weekend. I had great plans to get this to you yesterday morning, but I was thwarted by about 200 Thanksgiving pies.
I type the recipe below in the quiet of Thanksgiving morning, post-bake. The farm-bakery had the most successful bake we’ve ever had. It was smooth, calm and efficient, and I can only attribute it to the people who work with me and our collective growth. Milk Glass Pie has one full-time employee, plus one more holiday person who jumped in for a shift or two each week. And then there’s Jamie, my omnipresent helper.
A bakery I deeply admire posted about the Thanksgiving bake and the care put into each and every pie. It resonated for many reasons, but one was the fact that they baked over 600 pies this year. That number is achieved with a full staff, multiple locations, a large commercial kitchen, and ample storage. It struck me that our tiny cottage bakery pushed a third of that number out for customers with only two full-time bakers plus two part-time helpers. I call Milk Glass Pie small, but mighty all the time. This year, I believe it in my bones.
Wishing you an abundant and restful holiday. Feast! Gather with your people! Learn about native history! Give thanks!
Pecan-Coffee Crust
This crumb crust was the base of our sweet potato pie offering this year. It’s gluten-free and can be paired with just about any filling you like–– chocolate chess filling, or caramel custard would be nice. Since this crust has flour in it, it has more structure than most crumb crusts.
You can also replace the nut flour and gluten-free flour with one cup of all-purpose flour and it would work just as well. For the coffee, use good beans.
1 cup (128g) toasted pecans
¼ cup(38g) pecan flour
¾ cup (115g) gluten-free flour
2 tablespoons (14g) finely ground coffee beans
⅓ cup (66g) brown sugar
¾ teaspoon (4g) salt
5 tablespoons (70g) butter, melted
Using a food processor, buzz the pecans until finely ground. Add flour, coffee, brown sugar and salt and pulse to combine. With the food processor running, slowly stream in the melted butter and process until incorporated. It will hold together in a relative mass. Pour into a 9-inch pie tin. Press against sides and then the bottom. Use a measuring cup to smooth the bottom crust by pressing down and moving cup in a circular motion. Freeze the pie tin for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Once the crust is fully frozen, bake for 10-12 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely.
Fill crust with the filling of your choice and bake according to recipe instructions.